Dev trail of Kumaon
SEE THIS ARTICLE BY MEERA JOSHI.
Beautiful temples stand in secluded splendour in remote villages, deep valleys and dense forests.
Meera Joshi
God’s own terrain: A temple at Baijnath
It’s the legendary devbhoomi, a beautiful land truly fit for the gods. Known since aeons as Kurmanchal, the land of the Kurmavatar, (the tortoise incarnation of Lord Vishnu) it is today called Kumaon.This stretch in Uttarakhand was just the place to create abodes for the divine, and that is what its erstwhile rulers did.
Locating places of unparalled beauty with unhampered vistas of the mighty Himalayas, they constructed a host of temples. And today wherever one goes, even in the remotest villages, they stand in secluded splendour, solitary structures or in clusters, in deep valleys by gushing streams, on hill crests, or dense forests.
Though the origins of these stone edifices are uncertain, they were largely personal acts of piety by royal patrons of the Chand and Katyur dynasties that ruled Kumaon from the third to 17th centuries. Mostly stone constructions, they are in the early North Indian nagara style with their conical shikharas (spires) exhibiting architectural influences of the Gupta period.
I begin my temple trail from Almora. It’s an ancient town; its mohallas with their traditional stone-and-mud homes and elaborately carved woodwork are the most charming in this area. I start off before sunrise to Kasar Devi just a couple of kilometres away. Dedicated to a local deity, this temple dates back to the second century. Strolling along the road, with amazing views of the Nanda Devi right across and verdant valleys below, I reach the gateway from where it’s a short winding walkway to the top. The small structure of the temple does not boast any specific design, but there’s a special hallowed aura to it. Framed against the spectacular mountains, the breeze whispering through the clump of trees, its serenity attracted mystics aplenty. It’s here that Swami Vivekananda sat meditating. And in later times, writers such as D. H. Lawrence, Allen Ginsberg were mesmerised too.
Early evening, I saunter along the Kalimat ridge to Chitai, the temple of a million bells, through a thick forest of chir pines dotted with clumps of mimosa. Its heady scent pervades the air. Across the main road, I can see the white-and-red roof of the temple and the crowds waiting with hope in their hearts. For Chitai is where Golu devta, a legendary lord of justice, is worshipped. He is a much loved deity of Kumaon and his mediation called for, in matters legal. He is believed to be an incarnation of Gaur Bhairav (Shiva); his devotees, the Chand rulers built the temple on annexing this region. As I enter, I am surrounded by bells of all sizes. Strung too are petitions on scraps of paper. An answered prayer means the gift of a bell; and if a major issue is resolved, then it merits a sacrifice.
For Jageshwar, I reach the minuscule village of Jwalabanj by local transport. From Jwalabanj, accompanied by a guide, I walk the narrow track that zig-zags downhill far into the valley where it meanders along a stream to reveal the most amazing temple complex in this region. Nestled among the tallest deodars, this cluster of about 400 edifices (of which just over a hundred now remain) built over centuries, address Shiva by different names. Considered one of the 12 jyotirlings, Jageshwar (from Yogiswara — the lord of the yogis) is a place of pilgrimage. It was once the centre of Lakula Shaivism (Lakulish, the lord with a club, is believed to be the founder of the Pashupata cult of Hinduism). Other temples here are dedicated to Navadurga, Kalika, Pushtidevi and Kuber. With their carved pillars and statues of stone, wood and metal, the shrines are exquisite.
An hour’s trek from here leads to Vriddha Jageshwar, regarded as the abode of Lord Shiva prior to his manifestation at Jageshwar. I however head a kilometre on the way out, to Dandeshwar, another set of temples. As I walk along, the sun’s rays through the branches fall on obscure edifices that dot the countryside; they are by the road, on the slopes, below bridges. This is indeed hallowed territory.
Temple of the Sun God
An ancient temple near Jageshwar.
Further 12 km downhill from Almora is the village of Kosi. It is from here that I access the only Sun God temple in this region. An hour’s walk uphill to Katarmal leads to a rather unusual shrine. The deity here is Burhadita or Vraddhaditya — the Sun God — believed to date back to the 12th century. There’s the main temple and smaller ones around it.
Constructed in the 9th century, it’s the handiwork of Katarmalla, a Katyuri king. The Katyuris began to use stone slabs for their temples. Looking at Katarmal one wonders how these were transported over mountainous terrain to the crest to create such a complex. Though utterly neglected, the magnificence of the structures is visible through the decay they have undergone in the intervening centuries.
From Kosi, it’s onwards to Kausani. A morning’s hike from the town lands me in Baijnath, in the wide, picturesque Garur Valley. Baijnath, the capital of the Katyuri rajas was once a centre of artistic excellence. And here in an idyllic locale next to the river Gomti, is a marvellous group of ancient shrines. The main temple has a remarkable idol of the Goddess Parvati chiselled in black stone. Dating back to the 12th and 13th centuries these constructions, with their intricate carvings and sculptures, are a historical and architectural milestone in Kumaon’s temple architecture. As evening falls, I catch the golden glow on the spires. It’s a view quite out of the world.
This enchanting trail is easily accessible by road too. The drives are exhilarating, the air cool and fresh, and for further stimulation, small dhabas along the way for that glass of steaming chai.
Fast facts
Getting there:
By air or rail to Delhi
By rail or road from Delhi to Kathgodam
By road from Kathgodam to Almora (90km)
Almora to Kasar Devi (6km); Chitai (6km);Jageshwar (35 km)
Almora to Kausani (52 km) Kausani to Garur (19km)
Accomodation: Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam at Almora and Kausani
